Wednesday, January 30, 2008

Creamed Onions, and A Whole Lot More

A friend and former business partner from the South( Alabama) used to say, " every night's a Saturday night and every day is a Sunday." I think he was expressing his view of heaven on earth. The two best days of the wk. The debauch on Sat night; church and redemption on Sunday?

Let me tell you about Sunday. There's always a great singing of old hymns and some new, and usually a great message( sermon) from Pastor and then the feast. A buffet style cornucopia of hot dishes and sides and breads, fruits, cakes, pies, bars, cookies and candy. It is different each week, according to the whim or plan of our inspired providers/cooks. They cook their fare at home and bring it to church. No sign up sheet, all volunteer.That is God at work. If you come and eat it you would know that.

Noodle casseroles, or rice, perhaps a stew( often venison) , or chili, spaghetti , sauer kraut and sausage, something with potatoes, and this last Sunday a heavenly dish of creamed onions.

Creamed onions. If you have not had them before and then had them, you will have them again. A little sweet and creamy, dreamy w/ cheese, two kinds, according to Lois. You must first boil the onions till tender, and pour off the water. If you don't they will be too strong. Then, saute' in butter, add flour to make a roux( butter and flour for thickening), and add milk, get hot and simmer for ten or fifteen minutes, then add a sharp cheese like cheddar ( a white cheddar would be great, but unnecessary), and parmesan cheese. It is really good. People were eating it like it was a main course, in big bowls, like it would nourish both the body and the soul.

Creamed onions forever is what I say. What a side on a day like this ( about a hundred and fifty below zero).

Monday, January 28, 2008

The Other White Meat

I write this as our President speaks to a surfeit of applause in his State of the Union address. No more pork, he says. He used to be the king of pork. He is giving pork a bad name. Nothing like pork this time of the year, as a roast w/ potatoes, carrots, and onions. A Boston Butt w/ plenty of fat and flavor is my recommendation. More pork is what I say.

Sunday, January 27, 2008

It Doesn't get Any Better Than This

I baked, finally, my great Aunt Sophia's bread again yesterday. ( Halleluia!) It is whole wheat w/ scalded milk and water and oil and salt and vinegar, oatmeal, and my addition which is flaxseed. A little molasses and brown sugar, too.( half whole wheat, half unbleached white). A crunchy crust when it comes out of the oven. The first slices are exquisite w/ cold butter. Round loaves in the rustic way. Mine is softer than I would like - hers w/ more body and you sliced it w/ a hack or kitchen saw. She has been gone for years so I cannot ask or witness her exact method. Less kneeding, more kneeding, a pan of water in the oven? Anyways, a loaf like this has a depth of flavor that reveals itself as you chew, and an after taste that is like a great memory of something you shot or caught w/ a good dog at your side.

Dunk in a bean and lentil soup w/ plenty of carrots, celery , onions, garlic, thyme and bayleaf w/ polish sausage, not too much you don't need too much unless you want, from your favorite meat mkt. It is perhaps my favorite soup, rich, delicious, and good for you. I was in cooks heaven even before I cooked the next thing,...

Which was chocolate chip cookies, the recipe on the pkg of chips, but I did nearly half w/ whole wheat flour, and added hazel nuts. I love cookies, but in deference to health issues( because I know that I will be eating a lot of them), I attempt to make them more healthy. Chocolate is good for you, right, and nuts too, and whole grain. So my grandson and I ate them warm from the oven w/ vanilla ice cream, and no guilt. It is a rationale that works for me. Try it.

Try all these things. It will be a good day. Terve' tuloa( come again)!

Saturday, January 26, 2008

" Break a Leg"

I want to remind you that I consider all food as outdoor food( except chickens and pigs and more these days) since it lives or grows outdoors, and that I consider the wild and the free( well, not quite free) to be the best of it along w/ what grows in your garden.

Good food is available in markets these days as well, and that has happened because we the consumer have demanded it. A good thing. Shop smart. Make wise food choices. Did you know that the chickens that are labeled"all natural" are raised in lots of 50,000 or more, indoors, and they grow from day old to a 5 lb market weight in just six weels? That their legs break under the strain of quick growth and weight gain?

All natural? Yeah, like Barry Bonds is all natural.

Friday, January 25, 2008

Not Quite the Way Mom Did It

I was certainly not the only teenage duck hunter who drew the short swampgrass straw and had to strip down to swim out and set the decoys. It was in a remote and secluded location at a beaver pond that had never been hunted before, according to the behavior of the ducks. We made blinds. Ducks arrived shortly before dusk.

We would not have needed decoys. The ducks had obviously been bedding down here on a nightly basis for years, through generations. We stood, we shot, all five of us. We dropped ducks, they left, returned, we shot, they left, and returned. This continued for an hour. We stood unhid on the beaver dam, laughing and shooting. The ducks kept coming.

In those days, some 4o yrs ago, our moms cooked those ducks in the traditional way. Each bird dressed w/ 2 bacon strips, and roasted forever in a dry pan. It worked. They tasted of dryness and burnt bacon. Not bad for wild game. It was our duty to eat them.

It would be years before I would discover that duck was my favorite wild game, when prepared in a learned and skillful way. But simply.

You can roast them whole. Add carrots, celery, onions and garlic to the roasting pan, along w/ salt, black pepper and thyme, a cup of water and a cup of red wine, cover and roast for about an hour. Do put the bacon strips on them, thick sliced. Uncover for the last ten minutes if you want them nice and browned. You could add potatoes also, at the beginning, and whole regular white mushrooms or any kind about half way thru the roasting. Check for moisture at that point, and add more water if necessary. The resultant broth could be thickened into a gravy or sauce, or leave it thin as jus, which is what I prefer. A wonderful one pot meal, simply and easily made. Vegetables are rich and carmelized and unsurpassed when you cook them this way.

Wish it was duck season.

Thursday, January 24, 2008

It's Just Ducky

Duck soup. A Marx Brothers' film? Great slapstick as I recall.

Of all the wild game stocks that can be made, duck is hands down the best. Don't even try pheasant or grouse for stock - an off flavor that just doesn't work for me.

It's been a couple of years since duck, unfortunately. It is my favorite wild game to eat. You wll want to bone out the breasts and season w/ salt, pepper, garlic( shallots,too, if you have 'em) before you grill them med rare on the Weber or gas grill. I live in hardwood country and always fire the grill w/ oak or maple. I think it is stupid and expensive to use charcoal when hardwood is available on the cheap or free.

Cut the thighs and drumsticks off of the duck together w/ the bones to roast separately. Cover the remaining carcass w/ water in the stock pot, add carrots, celery and onions, salt, pepper, red wine( half cup), garlic and gently boil for a couple of hours. Taste it, adjust seasonings. If it is not rich enough, add a little chicken and/or beef base( quality) to it. The resultant broth can be used to make a gravy/sauce, or can be strained w/ a fine sieve or cheesecloth. If it is right it can be served as a consomme'( it does stand alone, it is that good).

Additional Notes:

One of the best natural flavors in the animal kingdom is duck fat. The French have known this for a long time.When you bone out the breasts, you may either remove the breast skin w/ the fat( just under it), or leave it on. When grilling then, the trick is to get that skin crispy w/o over cooking the breast, and believe me, you do not want that breast grilled past medium because it is a waste of exquisite texture and flavor.It melts in your mouth.

If you remove the skin, which I often do, you will either want to fry it ( the skin) on med low preferably in a black cast iron pan( or roast it in the oven) to get all the fat out of it so you can make a roux w/ flour to thicken your sauce. Duck fat is better than butter.Way better. A bonus is the skin "cracklins" that remain. You will want to save the fat that will be on the top of the stock pot too, either by skimming it w/ a spoon or ladle, or by cooling it. When you cool it, the fat congeals on top, and is then easy to gather.

Why so involved? It seems like a lot of work, time, and method. Because duck is worth it. It is that good. More about duck next time.

Tuesday, January 22, 2008

A Loaf of Bread, A Bowl of Stew

It was a pleasure to prepare and eat a simple stew of potatoes, carrots, onions and celery, seasoned w/ sea salt and black pepper, thyme( light), garlic( light) and bayleaf. A couple of bouillon(chicken) cubes, too.

It was the beginning of two different stews - broth based, unthickened - one of chicken for my 10 yr old daughter, and one of fish for me. I slow roasted a chicken breast to add to one, and poached some northern pike to add to the other - the meats are kept separate on plates to be added to the respective stew bowls. I added milk and a generous pat of butter to mine - which was modelled after the famous Finnish fish stew - and fresh ground allspice as a distinctive garnish and flavor.

Allspice is a spice/flavor usually associated w/ Middle Eastern and Indian cuisines( curries), and is quite exotic for a simple Nothern European( midwest) influenced stew. It is the perfect addition, adding intrigue and another level of flavor. Gosh it was good. Deeply satisfying in it's simplicity of broth and vegetables, and nice clean whitefish. Butter was the clincher, the winning fieldgoal.

So it was a great way to satisfy two tastes - mine and my daughter's.

Two cups 1 inch diced potatoes, 1 cup carrots, 1 cup onions, 1 cup celery( all in one half inch dice), just covered w/ water - gently boil w/ seasonings until vegetables are tender. Cook meat and fish ( seasoned or unseasoned) separately. So simple and good. Dunk w/ rustic whole wheat bread w/ butter. When you are eating this simple and healthy it is ok to eat butter. God bless you and your appetite.

Monday, January 21, 2008

That's All, Folks, Well, Not Quite

Chili in the morning, chili in the evening, chili at suppertime( sing it). Its been that way inside and outside recently at my home. Chili does go good w/ chili, but if you want to read more about chili you'll have to go to Outdoor News this wk, I think, and then next month to the Mille Lacs Messenger's Compass magazine.

In the mean time I am going to eat something white and I do not mean white chili, which is probably over rated. Why make it white, anyway, when it is so naturally colorful, hence flavorful and good for you.

Five colors, you might know,is a part of the Japanese" washoku" way of dealing with food.

White chili to me would be clam chowder, and that is good, or a great Finnish mojakkaa, which is a fish stew with potatoes and onions, and carrots, allspice, and of course fish. The old fashioned way is with the fish( northern pike is exceptional) enveloped in cheesecloth in the broth, and served separate from the stew. Using the entire fish except the guts and scales results in a great broth. You can roll the hard little white eyeballs around in your mouth, afterwards, like tiny jawbreakers, as my great aunt Sophia did.

Wednesday, January 16, 2008

How Do I love thee, Chili, Let me count the ways

There is Cincinnati chili, served over spaghetti noodles, which makes you wonder why you ever put spaghetti sauce on those noodles, or with penne noodles.

There is fish house chili, in which you simmer fresh filets of just caught fish( any) in a pot of already made chili. Add instant brown rice to the pot, too, and it's similar to a gumbo.

Eat chili w/ a side of butternut squash - an unbelievable combination.

Make a chili cheese omelette, or more simply, a frittata( easier).

Make hot dog chili. Or venison. Or pork chop chili, chicken chili, or chili with a wild and colorful bird( add cinnamon and some chocolate).

Tuesday, January 15, 2008

Compass Magazine; More Than Just Corn Meal Mush

I am working on a chili piece for the Compass, a quarterly publication of the Mille Lacs Messenger.

I"ll do chili in about 4 different ways -the Midwestern kind for our audience - w/ some additions and suggestions to make it more interesting. Chili is not unlike the taco, in that the additions, or condiments can really make it or break it. Of course you must start w/ a great foundational chili and then go from there.

Corn bread is a traditional accompaniment, but you can make a jalapeno cheddar corn bread, for example, which has heat and is more interesting. On the same theme, you can serve it w/ polenta( Italian style corn meal mush), which you can make according to the directions on the corn meal package, or you can add whatever you want like lots of garlic and cheese and green onions. Then you put it in a pie pan and let it cool. You can dump your chili on top of it and have a chili polenta pie, topped w/ sour cream, and black olives and greens( onions, cilantro), and reds too, like peppers. It would be striking in appearance and taste. You would take a photo of it before you eat it like I do.

Watch for the Compass piece. Subscribe to the Mille Lacs Messenger.

Sunday, January 13, 2008

A Win Win Situation

Great sports yesterday and Tacos too.

Packers win with the amazing Brett Favre, and the Patriots with the amazing Tom Brady( 26 of 28 passes). Gopher Men's basketball too, with Hoffarber and Knowlen, the amazing freshmen.

Season your taco meat w/ salt, pepper, garlic, oregano, cumin, and cayenne. Use baby gourmet greens( organic), and diced tomatoes and green chilis( from a can) instead of fresh tomatoes, which are not fresh or real this time of the year in Mn. Great game watching fare. Sour cream and guacamole too, and green onions and olives, both kinds. A great taco is all in the sides or condiments, and your family and/or friends get to customize their own.

You satisfy everyone, even the young ones. The rest is up to the team, and it doesn't get any better than yesterday.

Friday, January 11, 2008

Cooking and Drinking in Finland

Finland is not really part of Scandinavia, though it is often identified as such. At one point it was under Swedish rule for six hundred years and as a result shares cultural similarities.

Finland has/had it's own regional cuisines. Those that lived near the sea( Baltic) ate a lot of fish, herring for example, and even baked it into rye bread as a herring loaf. A short growing season coupled w/ a cool climate precluded the growing of wheat, consequently all of the early bread recipes were of rye. It was cold tolerant and was the only grain that would mature in that climate.

In the great drought of the 1880's Finns mixed ground up pine bark in w/ the rye flour in order to stretch a severely diminished rye crop. The pine bark had/has no nutritional value other than fiber.

Legend has it that a particularly deadly and hallucinogenic mushroom grows in the Far North in Saami( Lapp) country. Reindeer eat this mushroom with no adverse affects. If you capture the first urine of the Reindeer after he eats the mushroom, and drink it, you will see the Northern Lights like you never have before and also you will not die.

Monday, January 7, 2008

An Apology, and Kudos to Good Scandinavian Food

Well, there is rice pudding, which is also not mentioned in the Food Lover's Companion. So much for my bible of quick food information. Potato sausage, a truly unique and excellent Scandinavian sausage of ground pork and onions and seasonings is also omitted in this book( Companion), which has a glut of French, Italian, and Mexican culinary information. I am so dissappointed.

Rice pudding is a Scandinavian baked custard w/ white rice, eggs, milk, sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg. It is traditionally served during holiday celebrations. It is your lucky day if you get the whole almond which has been hidden away in the delicate pillowy pudding. You may be the next to marry, if indeed that is lucky.

There is a Finnish rice pudding, too, but it includes liver, and it is not very good unless you like liver and rice and eggs. It is called liver pudding( maksalatiikko). You will probably NOT marry if you eat it on a regular basis.

Sunday, January 6, 2008

Hot Dish

There was a good hot dish at church today. " Hot Dish" is not mentioned in the"Food Lover's Companion," which is my cheat sheet for all things culinary. I never thought that "hot dish" would be a defining term of our apparently obscure regional cuisine of church and pot luck suppers. Nor is pot luck listed in the "Companion.". Indeed we are obscure and special.

And as I discovered today, some hot dishes actually taste good. If they are an adaptation from another cultural cuisine, like Mexican. It was a sort of chicken and onions and peppers and Dorito chips and cheese lasagne, which is of course an adaptation of another cultural cuisine. It is not always necessary to change Scandinavian Midwest food three times to make it good. Sometimes you have to change it four times.

Salubrious greetings to all in this new year!